Chi Rachel and I planned to head to the Rucksack club meet at Gogarth. I was so excited I turned up at Chi’s house 3 hours early. We picked Rachel up from Warrington Station and ate some funky chicken wraps in the car.

We arrived late in Llanberris late and met Bart in the Heights for a pint. It was really hot and there were a lot of midges. We camped in the pass. It was still hot in the morning, we met Liam, Gaz, Rixham and Bill, they were going to Cloggy, this sounded less hot and like a good plan so we joined in. Chi and Bart didn’t like the walk.

Rachel and I did Vember, the first pitch crack was airy and bold (despite being a crack). It was cool being near the Indian Face. Rachel led the second pitch. It was excellent; sustained, interesting climbing with good gear. Liam and Rixham went to do a 6 pitch route called White Slab. The others walked slower. Gaz got scared on something, Chi’s finger still hurt from Pembroke, he was sad about this but did some classics with Bart.

The walls inbetween Cloggy’s famous corners looked way cool. I felt brave and got on Troach E2 5b. It was amazing, the best pitch I’ve led? Brilliant wall climbing, spaced gear – allowed the moves to ‘flow’, climbing felt effortless, just fun.

Psyched on Troach.

We met Martin from Pembroke and Gimmer again. He’s a cool dude. Finally we did Lithrig E1 5c, some interesting history behind this route and a grade split depending on the use of a pendulum – quirky. Walked down into the suset. Magical Day.

Cloggy as the sun sets.

Camped in the pass again. No breakfast and didn’t want to loose the car parking space so Chi, Rachel and I had a pre breakfast raid on Dinas Mot, climbing Super Direct. Much warmer and more enjoyable than when I climbed it with Andy a few weeks previously. The last pitch was dry this time. I led it and it was brilliant, steep and technical moves right at the top of the crag.

Buds on Dinas Mot.

Went to Pete’s, ate a lot and sunbathed by the Lake. Missioned it back to the train station so Rachel could get up to Glasgow.


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